FLOATING FLOORS 

Ensure the subfloor is dry, level (as per above), re-screwed as necessary and broom swept.

Use 6mm polyethylene sheet as a vapour barrier. Over lap 6” and tape with red tuck tape.

Use a 3mm high density foam underlay.

Expansion joints should be used at door ways and to break floor runs over 25’

Expansion gaps of 1/4” should be used at all perimeter walls and other obstacles that abut to the flooring

Floating floors must free float. Do not glue the floor down to the substrate at any point.

NAIL / STAPLE DOWN

Roll out wax paper across the dry, level, broom swept subfloor. Overlap 3”.

Do not use an underlay, do not use 6mm polyethylene.

Using 18 gauge staples or flooring cleats, nail or staple each piece of flooring every 6”

Use expansion gaps around the perimeter of 1/4”.

Top nail at walls or wherever the hammer can’t be swung at a 45 degree angle.

DIRECT GLUE DOWN 

Use a recognized urethane adhesive such as Bostik. Spread adhesive with the correct notched trowel in strict accordance with the adhesive manufacturer’s instructions.

If adhesive gets on the face of the flooring clean it off immediately.

GENERAL

Use ratchet clamps to pull and hold boards together if necessary.

If using painters tape to hold boards together we recommend 3M tape products. These products are specifically made for use on finished engineered hardwood flooring surfaces.

Always remove tape carefully and no later than 48 hours after application to avoid adhesive / finish reaction.

Mix boards from a minimum of 4 packs at a time. “Rack out” or pre-assemble the floor to determine optimum appearance and to spot defects. Locate the more desirable boards in the most visible areas and locate the less desirable boards in the inconspicuous areas. A flooring board is considered approved

       and accepted when it is permanently fastened to the subfloor.

Claims against our Limited Residential Warranties, including but not limited to: defects such as cracks, splits, shakes, color, grain, grading, average length, milling defects, and finish defects, will NOT be considered after the board is permanently fastened to the subfloor.

Use of a stain, filler or putty stick for defect correction during installation is normal procedure. Only deliver the flooring into a heated, dry job site. It is the responsibility of the homeowner to maintain a relative humidity of 35 – 55%, and a temperature of between 15 and 26 c before, during and after installation. New construction is notoriously wet therefore the site must be tested and confirmed dry to NFCA and or NWFA standards.

Maintenance: For Factory-Applied UV-Cured Polyurethane finish: use industry standard floor care procedures outlined below. Cleaning products and procedures offered by companies such as, but not limited to, BonaKemi and Basic Coatings are recommended.

Floor care and maintenance for aluminum oxide finish

DIRT, GRIT and SAND: These are your hardwood floor’s worst enemies. They act like sandpaper on the finish, causing scratches, dents and dulling. Place floor mats at entrances to trap dirt before it enters your home. This will help prevent damage.

WATER AND OTHER SPILLS: Standing water can soak into your hardwood floor, warp it and damage the finish. Simply wipe up all spills as they happen.

CLEANERS: Avoid oil soaps as they can build up and create problems when it’s time to put a maintenance coat on the floor. Instead, neutral pH cleaners made specifically for wood floors are recommended.

FURNITURE: Lift the furniture to move it --- avoid dragging. Felt floor protectors are strongly recommended.

VACUUM: Vacuum with a brush attachment -- don’t use vacuums with beater bars or hard plastic surfaces that will scratch.

SUN: Direct sun can discolor your hardwood floor. Close curtains and blinds or add sheer drapes to protect from the sun’s intense UV rays.

WEEKLY: DUST MOP or LIGHTLY DAMP MOP.

CLEANER: Use a recommended, citrus-based hardwood floor cleaning solution to clean the floor. Never leave standing water on the floor.

Floor care and maintenance for an oil finish

Over time, floor finishes wear down, which in turn leads to flooring damage. Linseed Oil easily protects your floor with a long lasting top coat seal. It penetrates deep into the wood fibers creating a water and alcohol resistant surface without altering the natural color of the wood species.

Re-oiling can be done inexpensively and quickly to either small worn patches or the entire flooring space. Usually every 6 months to a year is good, depending on the amount of wear.

Every chalet floor has a manufacturers coat of natural oil. When it is time to maintain your floor simply wipe on a recommended oil and then wipe off again after no more than 5 - 10 minutes. Leave no wet patches behind. This product is designed to go on thinly. The surface will be dry after approximately 12 hours.

Maintaining your oiled finish

Simply buff the floor with a soft cloth when it starts looking dull.

If you spill something on the floor, wipe the spill up with a damp cloth, then buff the wet area dry.

If your floor has light to medium traffic, this is the only maintenance you need.

If your floor has heavy traffic, you can apply a new coat of oil over the worn areas, it is not necessary to strip the floor.

You can also add more oil to improve the shine on the floor.